You draw, maybe something lights up, and nothing comes out. Frustrating, but almost always one of five things, and you can rule each out in under a minute if you check them in the right order.
The short version
- Check the basics first: charge, lock mode and liquid level.
- Lights but no vapour usually means a pod or coil connection problem.
- No lights at all points to the battery or a locked device.
- A hissing draw with no vapour often means a dead coil or blocked airflow.
Check in this order
Most people start by changing the coil, which is the most expensive step. Work from free to paid instead. The order below goes from the most common and quickest check to the least common.
A huge number of no-vapour complaints are simply a device locked in a bag or pocket. Most button kits lock with five quick presses of the fire button, and unlock the same way. Auto-draw kits often have no lock at all, so skip that step on those.
Plug the device in and watch for a charging light before anything else. A battery that dropped to zero can look exactly like a broken kit.
- Charge itPlug in for ten minutes and look for a charging light.
- Unlock itMost button kits toggle lock with five quick presses.
- Check the liquidMake sure the level is well above the coil holes.
- Reseat the pod or coilRemove it, dry the contacts and click it back in.
- Clear the airflowCheck nothing is blocking the intake or the mouthpiece.
- Swap the coilIf all else is fine, fit a fresh coil or pod.
No-vapour fault finder
What the device does when you try to vape is the most useful clue you have. Pick the answer that matches.
Lights are your friend here. If the LED or screen responds, the battery is alive and talking to the device, so the problem is somewhere between the contacts and the mouthpiece.
If nothing at all happens, focus on power. Leave it on charge with a known-good cable and plug for half an hour before you decide the battery is dead. Our won't charge guide covers what to try if that does nothing.
When you press or draw, what does the device do?
Flat battery or locked device. Charge it for ten minutes, then try five quick button presses to unlock.
The device cannot find the coil. Remove the pod or coil, dry the contacts and reseat it. Our error lights guide decodes the flash pattern.
The coil is dead, the wick is dry, or the pod is empty. Refill, prime and wait, then try a fresh coil.
Airflow is clogged with liquid or lint. Blow through the mouthpiece with the device off and clear the intake.
Auto-draw kits that will not fire
Many pod kits fire when a sensor detects you drawing, rather than when you press a button. The sensor sits near the bottom of the device and responds to air pressure. If liquid or condensation reaches it, it stops working or fires randomly.
Sensors also need a minimum draw strength. A very gentle sip on a kit with the airflow wide open may not trigger it at all. Close the airflow a little and try a slightly firmer draw.
If the sensor area is wet, remove the pod and stand the device upright on a tissue for a few hours. Our auto-firing guide covers the opposite problem, which has the same root cause.
- 1Mouthpiece
- 2Pod and e-liquid window
- 3Coil
- 4Contacts and magnets
- 5Airflow
- 6Battery
- 7Fire button or auto-draw sensor
- 8USB-C charging port
When the coil is the culprit
A coil can fail in two ways that give you no vapour. It can go open circuit, where the wire breaks and the device shows a no-atomizer error. Or the cotton can be so gunked that it stops wicking and the coil produces barely anything.
A brand new coil that gives no vapour is usually not seated properly or has a manufacturing fault. Try a second coil from the same pack before blaming the device.
If the kit has a screen and shows resistance, compare it with the number printed on the coil. A reading far off, or none at all, points straight at the coil or its connection. A fresh replacement coil settles it.
Common mistakes
These catch out experienced vapers as well as beginners. Before you assume anything is broken, make sure none of these apply.
The protective plastic cap on a new pod is the classic one. Some pods ship with a silicone plug in the mouthpiece or a sticker over the contacts, and it is easy to miss them when you are keen to try your new kit.
Also think about temperature. Lithium batteries struggle in cold weather, and a kit left in a freezing car may refuse to fire until it warms up to room temperature.
Test what you know
One scenario to check the method has stuck. The trick is to read what the device is telling you rather than guessing.
Most kits use their LED or screen as a basic diagnostic tool. A device that lights up when you draw has power, recognises the pod and is trying to fire, so the fault must be further along the chain.
Once you can read those signs, the right fix is usually obvious, and you will save yourself a lot of unnecessary coil changes. If you have checked everything and still get nothing, our help page covers warranty questions.
Your kit lights up normally when you draw, but only air comes out. The pod is full. What should you try first?
Quick answers
Why is my vape lighting up but not producing vapour?
Power is fine, so the coil, wick or connection is the issue. Reseat the pod, check the liquid level, then try a fresh pod or coil.
How do I unlock my vape?
Most button-fired kits lock and unlock with five quick presses of the fire button. Check the manual for your model.
Can cold weather stop a vape working?
Yes. Lithium batteries deliver less power when very cold. Warm the kit in your hand or indoors before using it.
Why does my new coil give no vapour?
It may not be seated properly, the cotton may not be soaked yet, or it could be faulty. Reseat, prime, wait five minutes, then try a second coil.
